Chilston Park’s Curated Bird in Hand Winter Wine Dinner

At Chilston Park Hotel, where Japanese craftsmanship meets English country house heritage, writer and photographer Priscilla Adegoke discovers that wine appreciation and culinary excellence are inseparable arts. Guided by Master Sommelier Clément Robert whose expertise in wine becomes a gateway to understanding restraint, and a chef’s precision reveals what diners travel miles for. Across four courses and five wines, she learns that the most transformative meals aren’t about spectacle. They’re about intention.

Inside Chilston’s Winter Wine Dinner

Nestled within 22 acres of lush Kent countryside, Chilston Park Hotel commands a stunning pastoral setting. Part of the Handpicked Hotels portfolio, it delivered an evening of understated elegance through their Winter Wine Dinner series.

Accompanied by my guest of honour Diana, I experienced an intimate gathering hosted by Master Sommelier Clément Robert, who guided us through a curated selection from Bird in Hand – a family-owned winery in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills.

After being ushered into an intimate dining room lit entirely by candlelight, an aesthetic both refined and welcoming, the evening commenced with a Tasmanian Riesling aperitif and delicate canapé, before progressing to a four-course dinner meticulously paired to illuminate Bird in Hand’s distinctive character.

Each course was conceived to showcase the winery’s pedigree whilst allowing the hotel’s head chef, Ali Altuntas, to demonstrate his considerable expertise in food and wine harmony.

The Glass Matters More Than You Think

In 2024, a visit to Castiglion del Bosco in Tuscany fundamentally shifted my understanding of wine. Red wine’s tannins and depth which I’d long dismissed as unpalatable, suddenly made sense when properly contextualised. Our guide observed that my previous distaste stemmed from years of exposure to poorly made bottles not from the wine itself.

With education came conversion, and with conversion came genuine curiosity about an industry far more nuanced than I’d previously appreciated. Not unsurprisingly our sommelier had visited this vineyard too and we were able to bond naturally over our experience. 

Before the tastings began, Sommelier Clément demonstrated something revelatory. The shape of your glass profoundly impacts how you perceive wine. He served us identical wines in different shaped glasses, and the difference was striking. You genuinely taste completely different wines depending on the vessel.

Temperature and colour of the glass matter too. We were shown how white wine served in certain glasses can appear almost red – a detail that underscored just how much of wine appreciation is about the details we rarely consider.

What struck me most, though, was the hotel’s commitment to sustainability woven into every detail. Ingredients were sourced within a five-mile radius, and remarkably, all plateware was created onsite from clay foraged from the property’s lake. Each piece hand-carved using the karatsu technique, a traditional Japanese pottery method.

The kitchen garden operates seasonally, and rather than making excuses about winter limitations, the team communicates honestly about what’s available, directing guests toward genuinely sustainable choices.

The Aperitif

Before Castiglion del Bosco, I would have dismissed red wine as unnecessarily complicated. Now I understand it’s simply about paying attention to the glass, to the source, and to the hands that shaped your plate. What Clément taught us that day wasn’t about becoming a wine expert. It was about curiosity: the willingness to taste again, to look closer, to ask why. That shift in perspective, from dismissal to genuine interest, is available to anyone willing to slow down.

As an aperitif, we began with a tuna tartare cone and blood orange gel, a single elegant bite that set the tone for the evening. The tartness of the blood orange provided brightness and contrast to the delicate, buttery tartare, all contained within a crisp cone. We were instructed to consume it in one bite, as intended by the kitchen.

Our aperitif was paired with Bird in Hand Tasmania Riesling 2023, a wine that showcased the precision Clément would continue to demonstrate throughout the evening. The aperitif’s elegance established what was to come: a masterclass in restraint and balance.

Our First Course: Precision and Smoke

Our first proper course was Rye Bay hand-dived scallop with parsnip purée, Kentish sweet pickled apple, and smoked mackerel bonbon in a chorizo crumb. The apple provided crucial balance, both acidity and sweetness, whilst the crumb added textural contrast to the charred scallop. 

This course was paired with Bird in Hand “The Nest Egg” Chardonnay 2022. Grown at 500 metres in Adelaide Hills’ loess soil, the hand-picked grapes are aged for nine months in French oak. The grapes undergo a process that yields precision over the region’s traditional ‘sunshine in a glass’ style. Where older Adelaide Hills Chardonnays are concentrated and bold (what Clément labelled “rocket fuel”), this one had hints of spicy cinnamon on the nose, fresh and restrained on the palate. It was the perfect foil to the scallop’s smoky depth.

Between courses, we were served warm bread, a brown loaf with cured, unsalted butter and salt presented separately, respecting individual taste preferences. It was a small gesture that exemplified the thoughtfulness running through the entire evening.

Chicken Ballotine wins Diana’s heart

Our second course was chicken ballotine with crispy confit chicken leg, black garlic mousse, King Oyster mushroom, and mushroom cream sauce, paired with Bird in Hand Syrah 2022. Diana inhaled this course with such enthusiasm that it became the evening’s running joke. It was clearly her favourite.

Roots, Family and the Wine That Carries Both

The Syrah itself told a story worth knowing. Bird in Hand was founded by a member of the Nugent family, who represents seven generations of Australian winemaking. What’s remarkable is that the founder broke from family tradition entirely. The Nugents are a family of medical professionals, doctors and scientists, yet this particular generation chose a different path, pivoting to viticulture instead.

After growing up surrounded by wine, he eventually purchased his own vineyards in the Adelaide Hills. His story resonated deeply with me. My own family is composed entirely of medical professionals, yet I too have forged my own path in food and travel. There’s something reassuring about discovering kindred spirits in unexpected places.

The Dish That Sells Weddings: Chef Ali’s Legendary Beef Wellington

Chef Ali’s beef wellington has become legendary. Diners travel from across the globe for it, and after this experience, we understood why completely. Paired with Bird in Hand “The MAC” Shiraz 2016, the wine’s oak integration complemented the dish beautifully. This was unquestionably my favourite course of the evening, and I finally grasped the hype surrounding it.

The golden puff pastry casing was flawlessly executed. The fillet itself was impeccable – a perfect blend of tenderness and flavour with every bite. The precision of the dish was evident, and it clearly left an impression on everyone in the room. One guest in the neighbouring room was so captivated that they booked their wedding at Chilston Park Hotel on the strength of this single dish alone. That testament alone speaks volumes about its quality.

A Final, Thoughtful Pairing

Our final course presented Oak-Smoked Winderdale Shaw Cheddar & Oxford Isis with plum, pear and quince jelly, accompanied by Damsels wafers. Paired with Bird in Hand “The Nest Egg” Shiraz 2016, it arrived as an elegant individual charcuterie board. I felt the restraint in this course was necessary so as not to overshadow the beef wellington we had not long ago consumed.

The intimate and unhurried environment allowed conversation to flow naturally between courses. We all felt entirely comfortable sharing personal stories and restaurant experiences despite only meeting that evening. There was no pretension or gatekeeping, with discussion ranging from Michelin-starred experiences to casual nights at neighbourhood favourites. Personal preference was genuinely encouraged.

Earlier this year, I’d written about UNEM – a private culinary collective born from wanderlust, where hospitality veterans transformed their love for Tulum into a mission rooted in cultural translation. The parallel felt apt as both spaces understood that genuine hospitality is about creating environments where curiosity thrives.

We salted our own butter, enjoyed wine at whatever temperature suited us, and felt free to ask questions without fear of judgment. When my cousin candidly admitted that Prosecco represented the full extent of her wine knowledge, it prompted a warm conversation rather than a raised eyebrow from Clément. In that moment, it became clear that expertise and approachability aren’t mutually exclusive.

A Room Made for Stillness 

As evening drew to a close, I retreated to the Queen Anne Suite, the manor house’s original master bedroom. This boudoir-style room epitomised quintessential English country house design. Within it was a canopied four-poster bed dominating the room, so tall that a wooden stool was needed to climb in.

Ornate cornicing framed the ceiling, a period chandelier hung overhead, and an original fireplace anchored one wall – all testament to the property’s Grade 1 listed status. A beautifully decorated and rather grand Christmas tree added a festive warmth to the space. Positioned at the corner of the house, the suite looked out across the grounds and gardens.

The colour scheme, a deep antique red, could have felt heavy but instead it felt warm and romantic without being fussy. Beyond the bedroom, a comfortable lounge and dining area meant you could settle in properly for the night.

But the real magic came at dawn: as the sun rose, the sky filled with pink, purple, and amber, the colours spreading across the entire horizon in a way that made the whole experience feel rather special. Diana eventually stirred, waking not to my usual frantic pleas to hurry for breakfast, but to the gentle click of my camera shutter as I tried to capture the sunrise before it fully broke.

To experience your next getaway, visit https://www.handpickedhotels.co.uk/. You’ll find the hotel nestled on Boughton Rd, Sandway, Maidstone ME17 2BE with double occupancy rooms starting from £130 per night.

Writer and Travel Content Specialist

A London-based luxury travel specialist, Priscilla Adegoke blends sophisticated writing with evocative photography to document the finest hotels, dining establishments, and exclusive experiences. Her signature approach pairs engaging short-form videos with carefully composed photography that captures the essence of travel.

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