From the outside looking in, two narratives are primarily presented regarding the Kumbh Mela depending on ones monetary or political motivations. On one side you have the romantic spiritualism of washing away all your sins in the Triveni Sangam. The holiest spot in India at the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna, and mythical Saraswati rivers. And on the other, HEYYYYY look at the naked, pot smoking, dreadlocked Naga Sadhus. The truth? It lies somewhere in the middle of the two. But honestly, I don’t care and wasn’t particularly moved by either of these aspects of the Kumbh Mela. But what did interest me, the people.
People make the place. And the Kumbh Mela is the perfect event to experience the brilliant tapestry that is Indian culture, history, and identity. This Mela is known as a Prayag Kumbh Mela which happens once every 12 years. Making it one of the largest and most important events in India. Not to mention the fact that it’s the largest gathering of humans on the planet. This year, it attracted 50 million on the day I visited. Making it a photographers dream.
During my time at the Prayag Kumbh Mela 2019 I was blown away by how welcoming, kind, and hospitable people were. Inviting me to talk, drink, eat, and smoke with them. Not expecting a thing in return. Another level of hospitality that many could learn from. Could it be the spirituality? Could it be an effort to impress foreigners? Could it be culturally ingrained to be kind? Whatever the reason it resulted in one of my favorite travel experiences of my life and inspired me to share the less publicized faces of the Kumbh Mela. Beyond the Pagentry.
This woman was selling water jugs. Many family members can’t make the trip to the Kumbh. So those that can take some of the holy water back to their homes/temples in these containers.
Special shout out to Indian women. They are the bedrock of Indian society and are some of the strongest people I’ve ever met. Heartbreaking the issues they have to deal with. I’ll be discussing this more soon.
This woman observed my colleague taking a portrait. At times, we became the center of attention at the Kumbh. Making it quite interesting when you’re trying to “blend in”.
This was a waiting line for one of the many free kitchens set up throughout the Kumbh. You’ll notice that men sit on one side while women sit on the other.
Once service begins, it’s similar to a processing line. Volunteers each have a different dish. They walk down the line and place a designated amount of food on each plate.
India gets a very bad reputation for it’s water quality. While I wasn’t brave enough to test the claims, I can say there were plenty of tap and filtered water stations around the Kumbh.
Many pilgrims are from poor villages. Without the resources to stay in more luxurious accommodations at the Kumbh. One way they save money is by hand washing their cloths and leaving them around the Kumbh to dry. This resulted in a beautiful kaleidoscope of saris and scarves all around us.
One of the hardest things for new photographers is to engage locals in a place where you don’t speak the language. But here at the Kumbh, that’s not a problem at all. Almost everyone was open to having their portraits taken. Just as long as you were cool with taking a selfie with them afterwards.
While we were housed in luxurious tents, these were the kind of accommodations where most pilgrims stayed. A stark contrast that I hope to discuss later. But beyond that narrative, humbling.
I have to be honest, I’ve never seen so many naked men before in my life. But what I found beautiful was the fact no one cared. Like at all. Which in itself is liberating. The Naga Sadhus would be the spiritual equivalent to monks.
Sadhus come in many sizes, shapes, colors, genders, and states of dress. The most common are like these men. You’ll see far more Sadhus like this than the naked ones.
YES!!! There was a lot of weed and hashish being consumed at the Kumbh.
Consumerism is alive and well at the Kumbh Mela. With plenty of vendors selling food, jewelry, and religious artifacts. I was impressed that pretty much everyone was charging extremely fair prices. No gouging at all.
This made me VERY uncomfortable. And I think it’s something that needs to be discussed. When children are being used to entertain people in return for “donations”. What threw me off was the mothers demanding behavior and absolute terror in that girls face. Suspended about 12 feet in the air with not net or harness.
I have to thank Lonely Planet India, the Uttar Pradesh Government, and Times of India for inviting me to participate in the Uttar Pradesh Travel Writers’ Conclave. For more information on the Kumbh Mela check out the government link above or here at the
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