Rare Finds | Jacksonville Magazine

Northeast Florida is enjoying an independent steakhouse renaissance
by Jeffrey Spear

Although we’re hearing a lot about plant-based foods, there are still plenty of carnivores in search of outstanding cuts of beef. Some relish the idea of a chewy, cheesy Neapolitan pizza loaded with pepperoni, bacon and Italian sausage. Others find nirvana in a juicy burger, crowned with all the fixings. Most will say the “best meal ever” is a perfectly prepared steak, cooked medium rare, accompanied by an exceptional bourbon or fine wine.

Finding a purpose-driven steakhouse that understands these preferences, sources better cuts of beef, and knows how to grill them to culinary perfection requires careful consideration. It’s also important to recognize that dining experiences can vary wildly in terms of culinary prowess, price and experience.

In Jacksonville, there are several independently operated steakhouses that meet these high standards. Some are quite casual, approachable and easy on the wallet. Others are considerably more formal, luxuriously appointed, maintain impressive wine cellars and chef-driven kitchens and cater primarily to well-heeled guests or those who’ve been saving up for a long-awaited special occasion. The good news is that there are options.

A Westside landmark since 1995, Cross Creek Steakhouse still operates as a steak and BBQ destination from its Florida-style ranch house. Both familiar and comfortable, its walls are adorned with historical photos, paintings and hunting trophies. Enjoy a cocktail in their Fin & Feather barroom. Better still, sink your teeth into a few menu favorites including fried green tomatoes ($10), Roadhouse ribeye ($29) and beef brisket plate.

In Mandarin, you’ll find the equally informal Salento Colombian Steakhouse. While they serve plenty of steaks, including a 16 oz. ribeye ($44) and 16 oz. New York Strip, there’s considerably more. Factoring in their Colombian roots, the menu also includes traditional arepas, empanadas and plantains. If you’re in the mood for Colombian specialties, the Bandeja Paisa ($26), featuring carne asada, chorizo, pork rind, arepa and fried sweet plantain, delivers a wonderful ethnic experience.

There are five considerably more stylish destinations with elegantly appointed dining spaces, expertly prepared foods, artfully conceived presentations, and service that’s a notch above, all approachable without breaking the bank.

Operating as The Tree Steakhouse since 1969, new ownership upgraded operations in 2015 and changed the name to Chophouse Thirteen. Today, this much-loved Mandarin destination maintains its reputation for praiseworthy steaks with a classic chophouse vibe. A few highly recommended dishes are the grilled Australian lamb chops ($55), Certified Angus bone-In cowboy ribeye ($76) and the pistachio-crusted salmon salad ($34). If you’re in the mood for a cocktail, relax in the Oak Bar, a richly appointed, dark wood bar with an impressive selection of top shelf whiskeys.

Similarly, City Grille & Raw Bar offers everything you’d expect from a traditional steak house. Their bar is a great place to start, perhaps sipping martinis and slurping freshly shucked oysters. Their dining rooms vary in design, one a bit formal, another garden inspired. If yours is a hot date, ask for an intimate table for two in their “tree house.” Everything on the menu, from the top-shelf wine list and fresh selections at the raw bar, to their Ora King salmon tartare ($17) and 18 oz. hand-cut prime ribeye ($66), is sure to impress.

Opened late last year by the same folks that operate Chophouse Thirteen, Chophouse at Nocatee offers a modern approach to steakhouse dining. With an open-air rooftop, elegantly appointed dining spaces and extensive menu, there’s something for every occasion. Excellent choices include Wagyu carpaccio ($28), Hawaiian Bigeye tuna tartare, and a 6 oz. filet mignon ($48).

Lastly, there are two steakhouses that operate at the pinnacle of style, elegance and culinary excellence. Whether it’s their extravagant wine lists, meticulously prepared dishes or elegance that exudes from every corner, these restaurants are exceptional.

Housed in the beautifully rebuilt Bostwick Building in the city center, Cowford Chophouse is an open, multi-level dining space featuring high ceilings, arched windows, muted colors and distinctive cow themed paintings by local artist Jim Draper. You’ll like their rooftop bar as well, taking in a little fresh air and panoramic views of the city. With a comprehensive wine selection and menu that appeals to all preferences, a few dishes not to be missed include their duck fat cornbread ($23), A-5 Satsuma Wagyu ($28 per ounce), and the Snake River Farms American Wagyu spinalis ($107), a top-of-the-line boneless ribeye steak.

Just opened in the Deerwood area, 14 Prime is undeniably stylish, pays impeccable attention to detail, delivers personalized service, and proves its culinary prowess with every dish. If you like to watch the kitchen in action, book one of the limited seats at the Chef’s Table. Creatively conceived cocktails, including their Cloud Nine, topped with a bubbly head of mulled wine air ($21), are delicious and entertaining. Don’t miss their wild Burgundy escargot pot pie ($27), hand-stretched mozzarella prepared tableside, and a 12 oz. Booth Creek Farm Kansas strip ($135). Check, please.