How to Wash Box Braids So They Don’t Get Frizzy or Moldy

You just got your braids done. The parts are crisp, your edges are polished, and you’re looking and feeling like your best self. Not only are you excited to be flexing a new style, but you’re also happy you won’t have to endure a washday for a few weeks—or so you thought. According to dermatologists and hairstylists, wearing your hair in braids doesn’t mean you don’t have to wash it; quite the opposite, actually. If you skip washing your hair while it’s in a protective style, it could do more harm than good.

“When done correctly, braids are an effective protective style that supports moisture retention and overall hair health,” says Zoë Indigo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles. Braids are especially helpful in the winter months when the heat indoors is blasting, pulling moisture from the air, drying out your skin and hair.

So, braids are the perfect length- and moisture-retention cocoon right? In theory, yes. However, where many people go wrong is ignoring the buildup that can accumulate on your scalp when wearing this style. “The natural hair at the scalp needs to be washed while the braids are installed,” says Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “This ensures a healthier, clean scalp, reduces the chances of infection, and even washes away some of the chemicals in the synthetic hair.”

Naana Boakye, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New Jersey, says you should be “cleansing the scalp at least once a week to remove product buildup and allow the scalp to breathe.” Spot cleansing can count here and there, but only to a point. You’ll need to give your hair a full wash after four weeks, max, though experts say two weeks is the ideal time to do the first wash.

Now that we’ve established that washing your hair while it’s in braids is wise, read on for advice from the pros we asked about how to properly cleanse your hair and scalp—plus, a few product suggestions to help leave your hair hydrated, scalp moisturized, and braids intact.

Step 1: Cleanse

If it’s been a few weeks since you washed your hair and you’ve been piling on the product, focus on clarifying formulas. These will give you the most effective cleanse, especially if you have product buildup from gels and oils.

Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego, suggests using a shampoo with ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, or zinc pyrithione, which are great for deep-cleaning the scalp. The Mizani Scalp Care Anti-Dandruff Shampoo is a great option that contains zinc pyrithione, plus skin-soothing peppermint oil and cucumber oil. The Carol’s Daughter Wash Day Delight Shampoo has a nozzle tip that makes it easy to apply directly to your scalp, getting in the nooks and crannies at the base of your braids.