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With so many skincare products on the market, it’s easy to fall into a frustrating cycle of splurging without seeing meaningful results. But a new study offers clarity—highlighting which ingredients dermatologists say are actually worth the investment.
In the paper, which was published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, a team of dermatologists compiled expert recommendations from 62 colleagues across dozens of centers in the U.S., highlighting the most effective ingredients for concerns like dryness, wrinkles, and more.
“It is literally impossible to keep track of the thousands of products, or for dermatologists to answer patient questions about all these products,” said senior study author Murad Alam, MD, vice chair and professor of dermatology at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine. “We thought that if we can better understand which ingredients are useful for which types of skin problems, then this information would be helpful to patients and dermatologists.”
Alam and his team surveyed dermatologists about 83 skincare ingredients and narrowed them down to the 23 the doctors agreed actually work.
The study reveals that “evidence-based ingredients exist, and dermatologists agree on them,” said Adam Friedman, MD, a professor of dermatology at George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences who wasn’t involved with the research.
Before surveying other dermatologists, the researchers scoured the scientific literature for skincare ingredients. They ultimately identified 318, which a panel of 17 dermatologists then whittled down to the 83 most well-studied. Those ingredients were then evaluated by a larger group of dermatologists, who were asked how effective each one was at addressing common skin concerns.
Here’s what to know about the top picks.
Retinoids
One of the most buzzed-about ingredients, retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A. In the study, dermatologists named them among the best for addressing acne, fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, and oily skin. In fact, Friedman called retinoids the “hero ingredient” of anti-aging.
These compounds work by inhibiting excess melanin production, speeding up cell turnover, and increasing collagen—a protein that helps keep skin firm and smooth.
“Retinoids are, for the most part, only available by prescription, while retinols, retinaldehydes, and retinyl palmitate are weaker, over-the-counter versions,” Lisa O. Akintilo, MD, dermatologist and cosmetic dermatologic surgeon at NYU Langone, told Health.
If you want to try retinoids, start slow—they can cause dryness and irritation. Apply them a few nights a week to dry skin, buffer with moisturizer, and increase frequency as tolerated.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen still reigns supreme as one of the most important skincare products. Whether you choose a chemical or mineral formula, dermatologists identified it as one of the best options for preventing fine lines and wrinkles. Sunscreen helps protect the skin from UV radiation—the primary external cause of collagen breakdown, elastin degradation, and DNA damage, said Friedman.
If you’re prone to rosacea, experts specifically recommend mineral sunscreen. This type uses mineral ingredients to form a physical barrier on the skin’s surface and is often better tolerated by sensitive skin. It can also help protect against ultraviolet light, a known trigger for rosacea.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a type of beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), a class of exfoliating acids. Dermatologists named it one of the best ingredients for treating acne and oily skin. By exfoliating deep within the follicle, salicylic acid binds to oil and helps clear out dirt and bacteria.
You can find salicylic acid over-the-counter. Like retinoids, it can cause dryness or irritation, so it’s best to ease into use gradually.
Glycolic Acid
A water-soluble acid derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid speeds up cell turnover and contains tiny molecules that help active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin. As such, dermatologists agreed that it’s effective for reducing dark spots and acne.
Niacinamide
Also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that dermatologists said has the ability to fade dark spots and reduce facial redness. It works by calming inflammation and preventing excess pigment from reaching the skin’s surface.
Additional Ingredients
These aren’t the only substances that made the cut. Here are the others and what dermatologists say they are effective at treating:
Dry skin:
Dark spots:
- Azelaic acid
- Kojic acid
- Hydroquinone
Acne:
Redness:
- Ivermectin
- Metronidazole
- Brimonidine
- Green-tinted products
When using any products for dark spots, it can take at least 8 to 12 weeks to see results, Friedman said. He recommends combining ingredients like retinoids, azelaic acid, and niacinamide—rather than using them individually—for the best outcome.
It’s also important to know that some of these ingredients can have side effects or aren’t meant for long-term use, he added.
For example, hydroquinone has been banned in some countries and “comes with irritation risk and potential for doing too much [like] bleaching the skin or even worse, causing blue/grey pigmentation,” Friedman said. “Hydroquinone should not be used longer than six months in a row.”
Brimonidine has also fallen out of favor due to its tendency to cause rebound redness, Friedman noted. “Its longer-acting cousin, oxymetazoline, an alpha-1 agonist, offers a more stable and tolerable profile for persistent facial erythema [redness] and is now more commonly used,” said Friedman.
Friedman also cautions against using clindamycin on its own, as doing so increases the risk of bacterial resistance.
In general, he recommends consulting a doctor before starting a new skincare routine. A professional can help tailor ingredient combinations to your skin’s specific needs and tolerance, Friedman said.
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