Experience Winter Sun in The Gambia: West Africa’s Smiling Coast

Escape the biting UK cold and immerse yourself in a world where the winter sun is as warm as the hearts of the people you meet. In our latest travel feature, we journey to The Gambia, the vibrant “Smiling Coast” that offers the perfect entry point for travellers curious about West Africa. From the quiet mangroves of Kotu Creek with a legendary birding guide to the aromatic, communal kitchens of Ida Cham Njai, The Gambia is a destination that balances soft adventure with deep cultural immersion. Whether you are looking for the tranquility of coastal boutique hotels or the raw energy of local markets, join us as we explore why this compact nation is the ultimate destination for a true Gambia Experience.

Kingfishers and a Birdwatching Welcome to The Gambia

We are only six hours from the UK and in the same time zone, and suddenly we are whispering on Kotu Bridge. 

It is late afternoon and the temperature hovers around a comfortable 24 degrees Celsius. Award-winning ornithologist Malick Suso leads us into the mangroves around Kotu Creek, right in the heart of bustling Serrekunda. The transition from city to nature here in The Gambia appears seamless.

Mid-stride, Malick stops. His voice drops. His ears tune in. The sound he picks out, he explains, belongs to a kingfisher. Moments later, he points towards a low-tide marsh where a black-and-white Pied Kingfisher perches, crest proudly raised. It is one small glimpse of The Gambia’s remarkable bird diversity. This West African nation has over 600 species packed into a country smaller than Wales!

Malick, crowned Wanderlust World Guide in 2023, has a gift for making bird life accessible. He learned his craft from his uncle who was one of The Gambia’s first recognised professional bird guides. Since those early days, Malick has trained over 200 guides who now follow the trail he blazed.

Malick effortlessly tailors our first ever birdwatching walk to our pace and level of curiosity. We arrive with no binoculars and only a casual interest, yet within minutes we are fully absorbed in a discussion about bird migration patterns. Birdwatching, he explains to us, is slow, relaxed and perfectly suited to anyone seeking soft adventure. Birding, on the other hand, is for the hardcore group of enthusiasts we spot nearby, most of them armed with serious intent and enormous lenses pointing into the mangroves. 

For first-timers, The Gambia is an easy, welcoming introduction to unspoilt West Africa, rich in wildlife, culture and winter warmth. 

Before we leave Kotu Creek, Malick gestures to a map highlighting upriver birding hotspots. We are unprepared for a longer (these can take several days) and deeper exploration this time. Still, as he paints a picture of drifting along the River Gambia past kingfishers, bee-eaters, raptors and more elusive forest species, he easily secures from us what every great guide does best: a promise to return. 

Malick offers to drop us off at Calypso Beach Bar and Restaurant in Cape Point where we have reserved an open-sided hut under palm trees for our dinner. As he leaves us, he spots a nearby pair of white cattle egrets lazily plucking invisible insects out of the gentle evening breeze. His eyes light up with excitement as he gestures to us to look.

Where to Stay in the Gambia: Coast, Culture or Nature

That gentle first encounter with nature sets the tone for our travel in The Gambia. Experiences here rarely feel rushed; instead, they unfold easily from wherever you happen to be staying. With no time difference to manage and days shaped by warmth and sunshine, choosing the right base becomes less about logistics and more about how you want to experience the country, whether through wildlife, culture, or simple coastal calm. After an afternoon in the mangroves, the return to a welcoming base felt effortless. 

We had arrived in The Gambia the previous day and felt none of the fatigue usually associated with long-haul travel. At Ngala Lodge in Fajara, the team welcomes us with warm towels, a refreshing glass of wonjo (also known as bissap, zobo, or sorrel), and ushers us to the Bantaba, a Mandinka term that refers to a traditional meeting place. 

We are surrounded by earth tones, comfortable sofas and curated art. The former colonial mansion has been sensitively reimagined, blending old-world charm with relaxed modern comfort. Set above the Atlantic on a quiet stretch of coastline, the family-owned boutique hotel offers the kind of escape that is especially welcome as the winter chill in the UK takes its grip. Close enough to key sights and wildlife hotspots, yet calm enough to retreat from it all at the end of the day, Ngala Lodge feels perfectly positioned for our Gambia Experience.

Our ocean-facing Macondo Residence  and Pool Suite feels less like a hotel room and more like a sanctuary. Inside, we have generous space with a shaded terrace and a private heated dipping pool. Outside, we are surrounded by lush tropical gardens that provide welcome respite from the midday heat. 

A quick pre-dinner wander around the property reveals numerous spaces designed for quiet relaxation including three swimming pools and an ocean-facing deck overlooking a private white sandy beach. With clear views of the horizon it is the perfect spot for enjoying those long, golden Gambian sunsets. 

The Gambia Experience offers a range of accommodation options catering to different budgets and travel styles. From energetic coastal hubs to tranquil river retreats, there is something to suit every taste.

Travellers seeking a coastal escape will appreciate Ngala Lodge’s tranquility. Beachfront classics such as the Senegambia Beach Hotel in Kololi offer a more traditional resort setting, offset by immediate access to vibrant nightlife, restaurants and entertainment on the popular Senegambia strip. 

Alternatively, those wishing to be immersed in nature can opt for the luxurious Mandina Lodges in Kubuneh. Here, floating lodges sit quietly on the creeks of the River Gambia, with days shaped by nature walks, canoe trips and close encounters with wildlife.

Over a generous seafood dinner platter at the Ngala Lodge’s on-site al fresco restaurant, we discuss our five-day Gambian experience itinerary. The ocean breeze flowing through the restaurant seems to whisper hints about what is to come.

Gambian Cuisine: A Market-to-Table Experience in Tanji

Our mornings at Ngala Lodge begin with birdsong (more birds!) and coffee on our private terrace. Breakfast done, we go for a quick stroll along the beach, dipping our toes into the Atlantic before meeting up with our driver for the trip to Tanji/Tanjeh, a small fishing town along the Atlantic coast.

This is where we meet Ida Cham Njai and several members of her family who also double as sous chefs, kitchen staff and co-hosts for the Ida’s Home Cooking experience (also named Yabouy Home Cooking after her late mother). Ida is a tourism industry stalwart in the Gambia and more recently, has become well known for her cooking school and culinary experiences.

Her Bantaba provides refuge from the midday sunshine as we gratefully receive a welcome wonjo. Her version of the crimson-coloured drink, made from dried Hibiscus flowers, has a deep richness. Ida explains what our day will look like. We will spend 4 to 5 hours with her and begin with a visit to the local market in Tanji to buy ingredients before returning to cook and eat.

The small market town of Tanji is anything but calm. This is the REAL Africa with no filters. The market is bustling, noisy, filled with vibrant colours and a plethora of aromas. Ida is a local celebrity and everyone appears to know her. Her beautiful smile lights up faces as she weaves a tricky path for us through the market throng. 

The market leads to the beach where fishermen step out from brightly painted pirogues and offload their catch directly into the hands of waiting traders. The fish is immediately whisked away to be distributed, washed and displayed, part of an ecosystem where fresh produce is part of daily life.

Just as she wraps up a jovial barter for some freshly caught red snapper, a griot appears seemingly from nowhere and begins singing Ida’s praises. Keeping with the famous oral traditions in this part of West Africa, the singer’s vocals are expressive and rich with local Mandinka language poetry. The call-and-response format of his song invites singing from nearby sellers and customers and soon we are all swaying and clapping with Ida to the beat of the talking drum.

The highpoint of our day, however, is the cooking experience. We gather around her like children eager for a story as she explains the menu. Each ingredient has an origin, each spice evokes a memory. Almost every guest in our group participates in the experience – peeling, slicing, stirring – under the close supervision of Ida and her bevy of young cooks. Before long, rich aromas fill the air – barbecue chicken (marinated in yassa spices), smoky fish Benachin (a one-pot rice dish), stewed whole vegetables – and the table is set for our Gambian feast.

Laughter comes easy as we have lunch, community style, shaded by the trees in Ida’s expansive compound (she owns the land and proudly shows us the homes she has built for her family). Over a post-lunch game of Wuri, Ida shares her vision to introduce more people to the culinary wonders of The Gambia through food, culture and hospitality. We find it hard to say goodbye to Ida and her gaggle but although our new found love is deep, our time is finite.

A 6-in-1 Tour: Experiencing The Gambia in a Single Day

One of the best ways to truly experience The Gambia is through a ‘6 Tours in 1 Excursion’. Although curated, The Gambia’s raw and authentic culture is undiluted through this full-day activity offered by Gambia Experience. Given the chance to shape the tour to suit our preferences, we decide to focus on the markets, nature and the beach itinerary and skip visits to the Kachikally Crocodile Pond and Museum and a local school. 

Our visit to Tanji Market the day before pales as we approach Serrekunda Market – the biggest market in this region. This first stop on the 6-in-1 tour pushes our senses even further. With wiggle-room only in some areas, Omar, our guide expertly carves a way through the teeming crowds, moving past stalls heaving with produce and sidestepping goods carts.

Grateful to be leaving behind the buzz, we head to Lamin Lodge, a rustic stilted “restaurant” and fishing settlement set amidst the mangrove forests of Lamin Creek. We immediately embrace the quietness.

In the restaurant, with an excellent view of the creeks, we start with some tea and panket (local fried dough pastries) which our guide calls “African pancakes” — our Nigerian readers will know them as the very popular and moreish “puff puff”. We negotiate a canoe ride with one of the fishermen/tour guides and soon we are gliding through the mangroves and learning about wildlife and oyster farming, a job traditionally performed by women.

Our destination is the area of Lamin Daranka where our driver tells us we can literally stand inside a naturally hollowed out and oddly shaped “Elephant Tree” (we later learn that this is actually a giant Silk Cotton tree). We are told that this ancient landmark holds many legends and traditions – of ancestors seeking refuge in its hollow from enslavement to gatherings of young Mandinka boys performing coming-of-age ceremonies.

The moment feels surreal and we take a moment to reflect on the cultural importance of trees like this – in many parts of Africa, baobabs and silk cottons often represent fertility, protection, and endurance.

A late lunch at Sanyang (Paradise) Beach and a sunset visit to watch the fishermen at Tanji bring in their day’s catch wraps up our 6-in-1 excursion. We return to our hotel grateful for the brief but impactful insight into Gambian life and culture. Dinner that evening is on the Senegambia strip. There we meet Chef Lunë (Luna), the owner and head chef of the highly-rated Scala Restaurant in Kololi where the food is truly exceptional.

Experience The Gambia – The Smiling Coast of Africa

Often referred to as the “Smiling Coast of Africa”, The Gambia has earned its nickname through the warmth and openness of its people, many of whom we encountered during our trip. 

Despite being one of West Africa’s smallest and less affluent nations (with its own set of challenges), there is a generosity of spirit here that we felt almost immediately. Greetings are unhurried, smiles come easily, and conversations with strangers are met with genuine curiosity rather than indifference.

Getting there

The Gambia Experience is a leading UK provider of holidays offering a wide-ranging beach, wildlife and cultural experiences. They offer exclusive flight services from London Gatwick Airport to The Gambia through current airline partner, Ascend Airways. Flight-only options are available along with Star Class upgrades (which includes a premium in-flight meal service and complimentary bar). 

Additional perks of flying Star Class include a dedicated cabin crew, increased luggage allowance, dedicated check-in desks, priority boarding, and lounge access at Gatwick and Banjul airports.

The Gambia Experience Holidays are fully ATOL protected and packages include luggage allowance, and transfers.

Co-Founders & CuratorsatHDYTI

Eulanda & Omo Osagiede are London-based freelance writers and award-winning social influencers who run the popular travel, food, and lifestyle blog HDYTI (Hey! Dip your toes in).