Allergic Reaction to Skincare Products: What I Learned

A couple of weeks ago, I had what appeared to be an allergic reaction to skincare products I was using, and figuring out exactly which product caused it turned into a whole process.  You would think that after everything I went through, I would have learned my lesson and apparently, I needed a refresher.

If you’ve been following along, you know I recently had an allergic reaction that turned into a whole process of trying to figure out exactly what was causing it. At first, I wasn’t sure if it was skincare, a body product, medication—or some combination of everything new I’d introduced around the same time.  Eventually, I was able to narrow it down to something I honestly didn’t expect: azelaic acid and then today, I tried something new again.  My skin had something to say about that too.

It Started With My Facial

This story actually goes back to the facial I had in July.  I hadn’t had a professional facial in years, and overall, my esthetician was happy with my skin and the routine I’d been using. She didn’t tell me to throw everything away and start over—which, frankly, I was happy to hear.  One of the changes she did recommend was moving to a stronger azelaic acid product to help address my hyperpigmentation.  I had already been using a lower-strength azelaic acid serum for a while and hadn’t noticed much of a difference from it. So after my facial, I switched to The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%.

Right away, I could tell this formula was different.  It didn’t hurt or burn, but I could feel it on my skin. There was a noticeable tingling sensation that I wasn’t crazy about.  At the time, I took that as a sign that this was simply a stronger active than what my skin was accustomed to.  In hindsight?  My skin may have been trying to tell me something.

Then the Reaction Started

Eventually, I developed an itchy, red rash and welts.  The problem was that azelaic acid wasn’t the only new thing in my life at the time.  I had also recently introduced other products, and I had started progesterone. Suddenly I was trying to play detective while my skin was reacting.

Was it the azelaic acid?

Was it the new body cream?

Was it progesterone?

I didn’t know and that was the problem.  When you start several new things around the same time, figuring out which one caused a reaction becomes much more difficult.

How I Finally Narrowed It Down

Once I stopped the products and started looking carefully at the timeline, azelaic acid became the common denominator and then I remembered something important.  Before using the 10% formula, I had experienced a much milder reaction while using a 7% azelaic acid serum. At the time, I hadn’t made the connection.  The stronger formula made the pattern much harder to ignore.

That was enough for me.  Azelaic acid is no longer part of my skincare routine and this is also why I want to be careful about calling something a “purge,” irritation or simply an active ingredient “working” when your skin is clearly unhappy.  Sometimes a reaction is a reaction.

The Biggest Lesson I Took From This

I’ve tested beauty products for years. I’m also someone who genuinely enjoys skincare, which means trying something new isn’t unusual for me but this experience reminded me of something incredibly basic:

Introduce one new product at a time.

Not three.

Not a new serum, a new body product and something else because you’re excited to try everything.

One.

Then give yourself enough time to see how your skin or body responds before adding the next thing.  Had I done that originally, I probably would have identified the problem much sooner.  Instead, I had multiple suspects and no easy way to know which one was responsible.

and Then It Happened Again…

You would THINK that after everything I just went through, I would be afraid to try anything new on my face.

Apparently not.

I recently ran out of the Murad serum I’d been using in my morning routine. I like Murad, but let’s be honest—Murad isn’t cheap. I’d heard really good things about a Vitamin C serum from Trader Joe’s and that it was a great, much more affordable alternative, so I decided to give it a try and this wasn’t even something I bought to test for the blog or social media. I was just looking for a less expensive option for my own skincare routine.  The first morning I used it, the biggest thing I noticed was that my face felt sticky. I didn’t really understand why, but I didn’t think much of it.  Then I used it again the next morning.  This time, something felt wrong.

My face—other than my lips—started to feel almost swollen. My lips weren’t swelling and my throat wasn’t affected, but my face just felt weird. And after what I’d recently experienced, I wasn’t interested in waiting around to see what happened next.  The difference this time?

I knew exactly what was new.

I’d used the Trader Joe’s serum two mornings in a row, and it was the only new product I’d introduced.  So I stopped.  I washed my face and went straight back to products my skin already knows: my Dermalogica cleanser and toner, COSRX Blue Peptide serum, my Murad Vitamin C moisturizer and some Vaseline on my lips.  Within about an hour or two, my face felt completely normal again and THAT is exactly why introducing one new product at a time matters.

There was no guessing this time. I didn’t have three new products and a medication change to sort through. I didn’t have to spend days trying to figure out which thing might be responsible.  Something felt wrong. I knew what was new. I stopped using it.

Now, I can’t tell you exactly what ingredient in that serum didn’t agree with me, and I’m not going to say the product itself is bad. Plenty of people may use it and absolutely love it.  What I can say is that my skin didn’t like something about my experience with it—and after everything I’ve just been through, that’s enough information for me.  I’m listening the first time.

I’m Not Giving Up on Trying New Skincare

After two reactions, you might think I’m about to use the same five products for the rest of my natural life. 😂

No.  I’m still a beauty blogger. I enjoy skincare, I test products, and discovering something that works beautifully for my skin is part of the fun but I’m going to be much more intentional about how I test things.  One new product.  Enough time to see how my skin responds and if something starts itching, burning, swelling or otherwise behaving like my skin wants absolutely nothing to do with it, I’m listening.  Because another thing I’ve learned through all of this is that a product can be wonderful for thousands of other people and still not be right for me.

That’s okay.

Pay Attention to What Your Skin Is Telling You

I’m sharing this because I know I’m not the only person who gets excited about a new skincare product.  We see recommendations. We buy something new. We hear about another product. Suddenly three new things have entered the routine and, if something goes wrong, we have no idea which one did it.  My skin made me slow down and apparently it needed to give me a pop quiz to make sure I actually learned the lesson.

So going forward, I’m taking the hint.  Have you ever had a skincare product you used without a problem at first—or something everyone else seemed to love—suddenly cause a reaction? And were you able to figure out what caused it, because apparently my skin and I are currently in our detective era, and I would very much like for this season to end.

Note: This post is based on my personal experience and is not medical advice. If you experience swelling, trouble breathing, throat tightness, or a severe or worsening reaction, seek medical care promptly.